Fifth Avenue Forum

Does that price include the rubber tailgate scrotum?

That's part of the Limited package.

Anyone ever SELL a PA titled vehicle to a WV resident? Anything I gotta do other than sign the title and hand it to him?

I sold my SRT-4 to a guy from WV.

He was very adamant that the WV DMV would absolutely require that the title be notarized, so we did the transaction at an evening notary. A quick glance at the WV website and I don't see that as a requirement, though. Just signatures and addresses. BUT the PA title does ask for a notary so maybe WV won't honor it with just signatures.

Other than that it was very straightforward. He picked it up with a trailer so he didn't have to worry about a temp tag. Do not give them your plate.

It's a camper... Yeah I told him I'd either haul it down to WV for him or he can bring his own plate and risk it. It's only like a 45 minute drive to his place and he didn't beat me up at all on price. I told him to figure out what needs done. He doesn't plan on getting plates on it so as long as he pays me cash I'll hand him the title and sign whatever.

Well, he's telling me the same thing. Maybe there's something to it. Luckily my mother is a notary. I'll just have her stop over and stamp it.

Some states DGAF about other states notary requirements so long as the title is signed by both parties. WV appears to care a great deal.

I purchased the camper from a SC transplant back to PA. he signed it and I went on my way, alone, to a PA notary. I had to weigh it to get it registered was all.

Shipped my camper down the road.

Time to make another poor financial decision and upgrade.

I got what I paid for it in 2021. Hard to beat that.

Much better than a camper

You obviously don't know my wife

You obviously don't know my wife

Pics of camper?

The new one? I dont have one yet. She's just not a tent camper is all

My daughter has a 2017 VW Tiguan that has a battery issue. I went to get it changed at autozone and they said they won’t replace it because it needs to be reprogrammed. I have no problem changing a battery, but haven’t run into this before. Some stuff I’ve read said it’s related to the stop/start system, which this car doesn’t have. So do I need to have the battery programmed or can I just replace it like I normally would?

I've heard of some BMWs with this, so it doesn't surprise me that VW does, too. Might want to see if an OBDII scan tool - which you should probably own, anyway - can handle this. Then you can just do it yourself.

Perhaps something like this? https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-Diagnostic ... merReviews

Yeah, I have a simple OBDII scanner, but it just reads codes. Seems like I’d need a higher quality one to do this, but may end up getting that.

I have a pretty nice scanner, but I can't confirm that it performs the function you're looking for. But honestly, may be worth confirming with the dealership that you even need to register the battery. I found a comment similar to yours that mentioned only needing it for the start/stop models.

For BMW the charge systems are tuned to the battery type and the age of the battery. So if you replace it with the exact same amp-hour battery of the same type (92ah AGM, for example) the car still needs to know that the battery is new. The alternator will deliver more/less charge to the battery based on its age. You can also reprogram it to accept a different rating or type of battery.

I ran into this problem with the X5. The used car dealer put in a 'new' battery, a surprisingly nice Duralast Gold battery. But it was the wrong rating and the wrong type so it caused all kinds of problems until I reprogrammed the cars computer.

Perhaps something like this? https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-Diagnostic ... merReviews

Yeah, I actually looked at this one, but it doesn’t have the “battery registration” option. The one for $110 does.

I actually don’t even know for sure if the battery needs replaced. My daughter got rear ended and I went to Raleigh to take it to the collision place with her. Then she said the car was dead. Steering wheel locked and car didn’t turn at all, but dome lights would come on. Tried jumping but that didn’t work. It was parked in a parking garage and had two tow trucks come to get it, but the first couldn’t because the emergency brake was locked on, and the second couldn’t get it out of the spot. The third guy came after i got the car next to her moved and disconnected the battery and reconnected. Started right up. So who knows what’s really wrong.

My daughter has a 2017 VW Tiguan that has a battery issue. I went to get it changed at autozone and they said they won’t replace it because it needs to be reprogrammed. I have no problem changing a battery, but haven’t run into this before. Some stuff I’ve read said it’s related to the stop/start system, which this car doesn’t have. So do I need to have the battery programmed or can I just replace it like I normally would?

I use this with my VW:

https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/VCDS.php

The free version lets you clear CEL codes and a few other changes.

My daughter has a 2017 VW Tiguan that has a battery issue. I went to get it changed at autozone and they said they won’t replace it because it needs to be reprogrammed. I have no problem changing a battery, but haven’t run into this before. Some stuff I’ve read said it’s related to the stop/start system, which this car doesn’t have. So do I need to have the battery programmed or can I just replace it like I normally would?

I use this with my VW:

https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/VCDS.php

The free version lets you clear CEL codes and a few other changes.

How does that work? Do you need to get something separately to connect to the car?

How does that work? Do you need to get something separately to connect to the car?

You need one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Scanner-Cab ... 08B7VTYP7/

Edit: looks like it only works with 32 bit windows.

Edit 2: In the comments is

"Everyone: Don’t use the mini CD drivers. To get the drivers search the webz for CH341 from WCH. This device uses CH340 drivers which are included in the CH342 package. Worked on Windows 10 64 but just fine. You are welcome."

Edit 3: This might not work on newer (post 2010) models.

VAGCOM worked on my 2011.

From your post though I don't think it's a battery. Id say it's in theft mode or something related to the accident.

Thanks for the update, was thinking of your 2002 the other day and was going to ask.

Given those choices I'd probably opt for the rebuild. Though when I sent my M6 DSC pump to Idaho for a rebuild they sent it back saying it was too far gone (rusted inside....how).

Keep us posted.

So I ended up going with the junkyard driveshaft. Drove it back and the car seemed mostly fine. Blinkers don't work, but aren't those optional on a BMW anyways? Supposedly the electric passes through the hazard button on the center console. Is it connected? I hope not. Otherwise, that's another item I need to track down if it's not as simple as reconnecting.

About 5-10 minutes from my house, the L light starts blinking. L for 'lectric, or basically saying that I have a bad alternator. Rolled through at least three stop signs so I could keep the engine going. Surprisingly was able to find a replacement at a local O'Reillys. Only saying it was surprising because there weren't a lot of options online, which isn't too surprising for a 48 year old car, and BMW didn't have anything available that didn't cost me a second mortgage and a long delay.